The long answer:

Drosera naturally grow in soils with very low nutrients, and high levels of water retention. Excessive nutrient load or fertilizer in soil will be harmful to the roots. Avoid Miracle Gro branded products, as these come with added fertilizer.

Coir can be used as a substitute for peat moss, but it should be flushed before use because it can tend to high salt content. Long-fibered sphagnum moss can also be used. Rocky medias like sand, vermiculite, or pumice can be used as a substitute for perlite. 

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Some peat does have more nutrient load, humic acid content, or other potentially undesirable things, so I generally flush all of my peat thoroughly before use. ​

The long answer:

These plants grow in places such such as bogs, and seepages adjacent to streams or lakes. Some of them can even end up partially submerged for periods of time. They are completely at home in very wet environments, and the soil should never be allowed to dry out. I will, however, sometimes let the water trays run dry for about a day or so in between fillings. There is some variation between species and some do appreciate it a little more well-drained than others. 

The rule of thumb for water is that under 100 parts per million (PPM) of total dissolved solids (TDS) is recommended, and under 50 PPM is recommended for long-term health. Hard water won't harm the plant right away, but the build-up of minerals over time will eventually cause it to decline. I'm fortunate enough to live in an area where my tap water averages about 75PPM, and I'm pleased to report that I don't have any issues using it on a regular basis. 

The long answer:
There's a long running joke that Drosera are called "SUN-dews" for a reason. They love sun, and lots of it. Probably 80-90% of all the troubleshooting I do for new Drosera growers who need help is about low-light issues, and underestimating how much light they need is one of the more common errors that new hobbyists make. 

Because they grow in relatively nutrient-poor environments in the wild, they tend not to have very much shade cover from large trees. So, they generally grow in areas exposed to full sun for much of the day. 

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While subtropical Drosera don't experience a true dormancy in the wild, they do experience natural variation in photoperiod over the course of the year. This seasonal variation can influence aspects of the plant's growth habit, such as the production of flower stalks. 

The long answer:
Some of the hardier subtropical Drosera, like D. capensis, can tolerate fairly hot temperatures up to 100f without breaking a sweat, but other species will be more sensitive once you start getting past 85f. 

These plants can also tolerate fairly cool temperatures as well. Night time temperature drops into the 40f range are not a problem. I've even had some species like D. capensis and aliciae come back from the roots after experiencing a mild frost outdoors, however they most certainly will not survive if the soil itself freezes. 

The long answer:

Many new growers are under the impression these plants need high humidity to do well, because of the dew on the leaves. They go so far as to do things like misting them to keep humidity up. The reality is that they don't actually need very high humidity to do well, and misting the plants can actually be counterproductive because it washes both the prey and the sticky mucilage used to catch it off of the leaves. ​

Many new growers also assume that problems like inability to keep dew on the leaves is caused by insufficient humidity. Often times, this is actually caused by underlighting. 

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In come cases, ultra-high humidity can be problematic, too, as it can cause any prey caught to get moldy much more quickly.

The long answer:

If your plants aren't catching bugs on their own, there are some ways you can fertilize them. One popular method is to use something like freeze-dried bloodworms (easily found at any pet store in the fish food section), and hand-feed the traps. Avoid feeding them chunks that are too large, as they can have difficulty digesting them.

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Another method is to use a light foliar feed with a very diluted mild orchid fertilizer. I have used Maxsea 16-16-16 solution at a concentration 1/4 tsp per gallon with some success. A little solution incidentally contacting the soil during a foliar feed shouldn't be enough to cause a problem, but if it becomes a concern, flushing the soil is always an option. 

The long answer:

Drosera are a large genus, with many self-compatible and self-incompatible species when it comes to self-pollination. Some species are self-compatible, but are dichogamous, meaning they need some kind of assistance to to self-pollinate and won't simply do so on their own. With so many species, I won't get into which are and aren't self-compatible here and now. ​Most Drosera can also be propagated via leaf, root, and stem cuttings, with some exceptions. Again, with so many species in the genus, I won't be getting in to specifics about which species do and don't work via each method here because this section is already going to be long enough.

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For seed starting, I typically recommend preparing a small pot with your preferred potting mix, and a light top dressing of pure peat moss or finely chopped sphagnum moss. I also recommend flushing the media thoroughly before use to help mitigate fungus or algae growth. Thoroughly wet the media before sowing, and keep the pots as wet as you would for adult plants when germinating. Drizzle the seeds evenly around the surface of the pot and keep in a place with adequate lighting (the same amount you'd use for adult plants). Seed for subtropical species does not need to be stratified before sowing. Since subtropical Drosera typically don't need very high humidity, I don't keep my pots under humidity domes for seed germination, either. In fact, more air flow is generally better and will help reduce the growth of mold and fungus. Most species will germinate in about 2-6 weeks. 

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For root cuttings, I will generally cut off a segment of root at least about 1.5" long. Longer segments have a better strike rate and will grow faster. I place them in a pot with my preferred potting mix, and press them into the surface of the media, making sure they have good contact with the soil. Sometimes I will partially bury them under a very small layer of peat/finely chopped sphagnum, just to make sure they stay adequately wet when sprouting. Growth can generally be seen in a few weeks. 

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For leaf cuttings, it's generally best to use the entire leaf for species with smaller leaves. Larger branching species like D. binata can be cut into more manageable pieces. There are two methods I'll use for rooting leaf cuttings. For one method, I will use a essentially the same method to how I sprout root cuttings, pressing them into the surface of media and sometimes partially burying them to make sure they have good contact with the soil. For the other method, I'll float the leaf cuttings in a clear container filled with water under an adequately strong light source until they sprout, then pot them in my preferred growing mix and grow normally. 

Stem cuttings are fairly straightforward. Prepare a pot with your preferred potting mix, and plant the stem in the media with the growth point round soil-level, and the stem will form new roots. The growth point may slow down, shed off some leaves, etc, while the roots are forming, and this is fine.